Mademoiselle Read online

For special research and technical assistance, I thank Bradley Cain, Robert Fuglei, Nahid Hassani, Jack Hill, Valérie Masson, Lisa Maurer, Paul Rubin, and Kenneth Seidel.

  I have benefited from the support of administrators and colleagues at the University of Nebraska-Lincoln, especially James B. Milliken, Charles O’Connor, Harvey Perlman, William Nunez, Professor Susan Belasco, Professor Emerita Joy Ritchie, Petra Wahlqvist, Amy Ossian, and Lucy Buntain Comine. For their support of an earlier version of this project, I gratefully acknowledge the John Simon Guggenheim Memorial Foundation, the Dedalus Foundation, the American Council of Learned Societies, and the Getty Research Institute.

  Scott Moyers believed in and nurtured this project from the very beginning and convinced me to trust my “biographer’s yen.” Andrew Wylie and his staff in New York and London provide a level of intelligent attention that can only be called “luxurious.” Special thanks must go to Jacqueline Ko at the Wylie Agency.

  For her rare combination of a brilliant critical mind and a very gentle, diplomatic style of persuasion, I am especially thankful for my editor, Jennifer Hershey. Associate editor Joey McGarvey combines keen insight and meticulousness with heroic levels of patience.

  To my sister, Karen DeRubeis, thank you for being my most steadfast confidante. Thank you Alexandra and Dylan DeRubeis for your loving enthusiasm.

  Finally, my husband, Jorge Daniel Veneciano, endured listening to nearly the entire manuscript read aloud, and dramatically improved it with his fine and astute suggestions. His vision never fails to surprise me, and through him, I learn to see the world in entirely new ways. His vibrant, learned, sophisticated yet joyful appreciation of design, art, culture, and life itself sustains me daily.

  BIBLIOGRAPHY

  ARCHIVES AND SPECIAL COLLECTIONS

  Archives de la Préfecture de Police de Paris. Paris, France.

  Archives de la Société Historique de Compiègne. Compiègne, France.

  Balsan family archives. Private collection. Châteauroux, France.

  Bibesco, Princess Marthe. Papers. Harry Ransom Center. The University of Texas at Austin. Austin, Texas.

  Bibliothèque de l’Arsenal. Collection Auguste Rondel (materials on early twentieth-century French dance, drama, and musical performance). Paris, France.

  Chanel, House of. Direction du Patrimoine (formerly known as the Conservatoire Chanel, archives pertaining to the life of Gabrielle Chanel and the Chanel Corporation). Paris, France.

  Churchill, Sir Winston. Chartwell Papers. Churchill Archives Centre. Churchill College, Cambridge University. Cambridge, England.

  Cocteau, Jean. Fonds Cocteau. Bibliothèque Historique de la Ville de Paris. Paris, France.

  Cooper, Alfred Duff (1st Viscount Norwich). Papers. Churchill Archives Centre. Churchill College, Cambridge University. Cambridge, England.

  Diaghilev, Serge. The Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev. Howard D. Rothschild Collection. Harvard Theatre Collection. Houghton Library. Harvard University. Cambridge, Massachusetts.

  Fundació Apel-les Fenosa. Archive. El Vendrell, Spain.

  Iribe, Paul. Fonds Iribe. Le Témoin, all issues. Bibliothèque Forney. Paris, France.

  Northwestern University Library, Charles Deering McCormick Library of Special Collections, Siege of Paris Collection. Evanston, Illinois.

  Romanov, Dmitri Pavlovich, Grand Duke of Russia. Diaries and Personal Record Books. Houghton Library. Harvard University. Cambridge, Massachusetts.

  Swanson, Gloria. Papers. Harry Ransom Center. The University of Texas, Austin. Austin, Texas.

  Vilmorin, Louise de. Fonds Louise de Vilmorin. Bibliothèque Jacques Doucet. Paris, France.

  Wilson, Sir Henry H. Papers. Imperial War Museum. London, England.

  WORKS ON CHANEL

  Bott, Danièle. Chanel. Paris: Editions Ramsey, 2005.

  Chaney, Lisa. Chanel: An Intimate Life. New York: Viking Press, 2011.

  Charles-Roux, Edmonde. Chanel and her World. Translated by Daniel Wheeler. New York: The Vendôme Press, 1981. Originally published in French as Le Temps Chanel. Paris: Editions du Chêne, 1979.

  ——. Le Monde Chanel. Paris: Chêne/Grasset, 1979.

  ——. L’Irrégulière: l’itinéraire de Coco Chanel. Paris: Grasset, 1974.

  Cocteau, Jean. “Chanel, un projet romanesque.” Oeuvres romanesques. Paris: Gallimard, 2006, 883–884 (original date of publication unknown).

  Delay, Claude. Chanel Solitaire. 1974. Paris: Gallimard, 1983.

  Fiemeyer, Isabelle. Coco Chanel, un Parfum de mystère. Paris: Editions Payot, 1999.

  ——and Gabrielle Palasse Labrunie. Intimate Chanel. Paris: Flammarion, 2011.

  Galante, Pierre. Mademoiselle Chanel, translated by Eileen Geist and Jesse Wood. Chicago: H. Regnery Co., 1973.

  Haedrich, Marcel. Coco Chanel. Paris: Editions Belfond, 1987, rep. 2008 Editions Gutenberg.

  Kennett, Frances. The Life and Loves of Gabrielle Chanel. London: Gollancz Books, 1989.

  Koda, Harold, and Andrew Bolton, eds. Chanel. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2005.

  Madsen, Axel. Chanel: A Woman of her Own. New York: Henry Holt, 1991.

  Marquand, Lilou. Chanel m’a dit. Paris: Editions Lattès, 1990.

  Mazzeo, Tilar. The History of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume. New York: HarperCollins, 2010.

  ——. L’Allure de Chanel. 1976. Reprint. Paris: Hermann, 1996.

  Picardie, Justine. Coco Chanel: The Legend and the Life. New York: HarperCollins, 2010.

  Ternon, François. Histoire du numéro 5 de Chanel. Paris: Editions Normant, 2009.

  Vaughan, Hal. Sleeping with the Enemy: Coco Chanel’s Secret War. New York: Knopf, 2011.

  Vilmorin, Louise de. Mémoires de Coco. Paris: Gallimard, 1999.

  Wallach, Janet. Chanel: Her Style and Her Life. New York: Doubleday, 1998.

  OTHER WORKS

  Adam, Helen Pearl. Paris Sees It Through: A Diary, 1914–1919. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1919.

  Alison, Martine. “Les Parents d’A. E. Capel.” Unpublished article, 2008.

  ——. “T. J. Capel.” Unpublished article, 2008.

  Allard, Paul. Quand Hitler Espionne la France. Paris: Les Editions de France, 1939.

  Anthony, Noel. “Fern Bedaux Fights Back.” The Milwaukee Journal, April 13, 1955.

  Antliff, Mark. “Fascism, Modernism, and Modernity.” Art Bulletin 84, no. 1 (March 2002): 148–69.

  Arendt, Hannah. The Origins of Totalitarianism. 1948. Reprint, New York: Harcourt, 1968.

  “Art de Vivre.” Madame Figaro, April 17, 2009.

  “Article on Moscow Exposition.” Le Patriote Illustré, no. 32, August 6, 1961.

  Atkinson, Brooks J. “The Play: Lunations of Jean Cocteau.” The New York Times, April 25, 1930.

  Baackmann, Susanne, and David Craven. “An Introduction to Modernism—Fascism—Postmodernism.” Modernism/modernity 15, no. 1 (January 2008): 1–8.

  Ballard, Bettina. In My Fashion. New York: D. McKay, 1969.

  Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt. The Glitter and the Gold: The American Duchess in Her Own Words. 1953. Reprint, New York: St. Martin’s Press, 2012.

  Barbieri, Annalisa. “When Skirts Were Full and Women Were Furious.” The Independent, March 3, 1996.

  Bard, Christine. Les Filles de Marianne. Paris: Fayard, 1995.

  Barnes, Clive. “Katharine Hepburn Has Title Role in ‘Coco.’ ” The New York Times, December 19, 1969.

  Barry, Joseph. “Chanel No. 1: Fashion World Legend.” The New York Times, August 23, 1964.

  ——. Interview with Chanel. McCall’s, November 1, 1965, 172–73.

  Barthes, Roland. “The Contest Between Chanel and Courrèges.” In The Language of Fashion, translated by Andy Stafford and edited by Stafford and Michael Carter, 105. Oxford: Berg, 2006.

  Baudelaire, Charles. “Knock Down the Poor!” Translated by Albert Botin. In Baudelaire, Rimbaud, Verlaine, edited by Joseph Bernstein. New York: Citadel Press, 19
93.

  Beaton, Cecil. The Glass of Fashion. New York: Doubleday, 1954.

  ——. The Unexpurgated Beaton: The Cecil Beaton Diaries as He Wrote Them, 1970–1980. New York: Knopf, 2003.

  Bedford, Sybille. Quicksands. Berkeley: Counterpoint, 2005.

  Belle, Jean-Michel. Les Folles années de Maurice Sachs. Paris: Editions Bernard Grasset, 1979.

  Benaïm, Laurence. Marie Laure de Noailles: La Vicomtesse du bizarre. Paris: Grasset, 2001.

  Bender, Marylin. “The Challenge of Making Costumes Out of Chanel’s Clothes.” The New York Times, November 25, 1969.

  Benjamin, Walter. The Arcades Project. Translated by Kevin McLaughlin. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 2002.

  Berl, Emmanuel. “La Chair et le sang: Lettre à un jeune ouvrier.” Marianne, June 24, 1936, 3.

  Berman, Phyllis, and Zina Sawaya. “The Billionaires Behind Chanel.” Forbes, April 3, 1989, 104–8.

  Bernard, René. “La France frappe les trois coups à Moscou.” Elle, August 11, 1961.

  Bernstein, Henry. Le Secret: Une Pièce en trois actes. Ann Arbor, Mich.: University of Michigan Press, 1917.

  Bernstein Gruber, Georges, and Gilbert Martin. Bernstein Le Magnifique. Paris: Editions JC Lattès, 1988.

  Berthod, Claude. “Romy Schneider pense tout haut.” Elle (France), September 1963, 130–32.

  Berton, Celia. Paris à la Mode: A Voyage of Discovery. London: Gollancz, 1956.

  Birchard, Robert S. Cecil B. DeMille’s Hollywood. Lexington: University of Kentucky Press, 2004.

  Birkhead, May. “American Women Dare Paris Riots.” The New York Times, February 25, 1934.

  ——. “Chanel Entertains at Brilliant Fête.” The New York Times, July 5, 1931.

  Birnbaum, Pierre. Un mythe politique: La “République juive.” Paris: Fayard, 1988.

  Blet, Pierre. Pius XII and the Second World War. Translated by Lawrence J. Johnson. Mahwah, N.J.: Paulist Press, 1999.

  “Bloc Notes Parisiens.” Le Gaulois, December 6, 1885.

  Bloch, Michael. The Secret File of the Duke of Windsor. New York: HarperCollins, 1989.

  Bloom, Peter J. French Colonial Documentary: Mythologies of Humanitarianism. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press, 2008.

  Bourdieu, Pierre. Sociology in Question. Translated by Richard Nice. London: SAGE Publications, 1993.

  Boyd, Gavin. Paul Morand et la Roumanie. Paris: l’Harmattan, 2002.

  Brantes, Emmanuel de, and Gilles Brochard. “Interview avec Jean-Louis de Faucigny-Lucinge.” Quotidien de Paris, April 6, 1990.

  Brasillach, Robert. “Journal d’un homme occupé.” In Une Génération dans l’orage: Mémoires, translated by Mary Ann Frese Witt. Paris: Plon, 1968.

  ——. Notre Avant-Guerre. Paris: Plon, 1941.

  Brubach, Holly. “In Fashion: School of Chanel.” The New Yorker, February 27, 1989, 71–76.

  Buisson, Patrick. 1940–1945: Années Erotiques, vol 2: De la Grande prostituée à la revanche des mâles. Paris: Albin Michel, 2009.

  Burton, Richard D. E. Holy Tears, Holy Blood: Women, Catholicism, and the Culture of Suffering in France, 1840–1970. Ithaca, N.Y.: Cornell University Press, 2004.

  “Business: Haute Couture.” Time, August 13, 1928, 35.

  Butler, Judith. Antigone’s Claim. New York: Columbia University Press, 2002.

  Bytwerk, Randall L., ed. Landmark Speeches of National Socialism. College Station: Texas A&M University Press, 2008.

  Cabire, Emma. “Le Cinéma et la Mode.” La Revue du Cinéma, September 1, 1931, 25–26.

  Capel, Arthur Edward. De Quoi demain sera-t-il fait? Paris: Librairie des Médicis, 1939.

  ——. Reflections on Victory. London: T. W. Laurie, 1917.

  Carleston, Erin. Thinking Fascism. Stanford: Stanford University Press, 1998.

  “Carnet Mondain.” La Nouvelle Revue, July–August 1889, 207.

  Carroll, David. “What It Meant to Be ‘A Jew’ in Vichy France: Xavier Vallat, State Anti-Semitism, and the Question of Assimilation.” Sub Stance 27, no. 3 (1998): 36–54.

  Chambrun, René de. “Morand et Laval: Une Amitié historique.” Ecrits de Paris, no. 588 (May 1997): 39–44.

  “Chanel: Ageless Designer Whose Young Look Is America’s Favorite.” The New York Times, September 9, 1957.

  “Chanel à la Page, But No!” Los Angeles Times, February 6, 1954.

  “Chanel Blousing.” Vogue, March 15, 1956.

  “Chanel Copies. USA—Daytime Programming.” Vogue, October 1, 1958.

  “Chanel Designs Again.” Vogue, February 15, 1954, 82–85, 128–29.

  “Chanel in Dig at Mrs. Kennedy’s Taste.” The New York Times, July 29, 1967.

  “Chanel Is Master of Her Art.” Vogue, November 1, 1916, 65.

  “Chanel Is Returning to Dressmaking February 5.” The New York Times, December 21, 1953.

  “Chanel Offers Her Shop to Workers.” The New York Times, June 19, 1936.

  “Chanel Redevient Chanel.” République des Pyrénées, October 14, 1954.

  “Chanel reste fidèle à son style.” L’Aurore, February 9, 1956.

  “Chanel Resumes Easy Lines of the 1930s.” Women’s Wear Daily, February 8, 1954.

  “Chanel’s Exhibition Opened at 39 Grosvenor Square.” Harper’s Bazaar, May 1932, 67.

  “Chanel Sport Costumes Increasing in Popularity Daily on the Riviera.” Women’s Wear Daily, February 28, 1916.

  “Chanel Suit Casually Fitted.” Vogue, September 15, 1957.

  “Chanel Wants to Be Copied!” The Louisville Courier Journal, August 19, 1956.

  Chanel, Coco. “Preface à ma collection d’hiver.” Conservatoire Chanel, August 6, 1934.

  ——. Television interview by Jacques Chazot. Dim Dam Dom. 1968.

  Chapsal, Madeleine. Interview with Coco Chanel, L’Express, August 11, 1960.

  ——. La Chair de la robe. Paris: Librairie Fayard, 1989.

  Chazot, Jacques. Chazot Jacques. Paris: Editions Stock, 1975.

  Churchill, Lida. The Magic Seven. New York: Alliance Publishing, 1901.

  Clerc, Michel. “Chanel à Moscou.” Le Figaro, July 27, 1961.

  Cocteau, Jean. “A Propos d’Antigone.” Gazette des 7 Arts, February 10, 1923.

  ——. “From Worth to Alix.” Harper’s Bazaar, March 1937, 128–30.

  ——. Opium: The Diary of His Cure. Translated by Margaret Crosland. 1930. Reprint, London: Peter Owen Publishers, 1990.

  ——. “Préface.” Orphée. Paris: Editions Bordas, 1973.

  ——. Théâtre. Paris: Gallimard, 1948.

  Colette. Lettres à Marguerite Moreno. Paris: Flammarion, 1959.

  ——. Prisons et paradis. Paris: J. Ferenzci et Fils, 1932.

  ——. “Spectacles de Paris.” Journal, October 24, 1937.

  Collins, Amy Fine. “Haute Coco.” Vanity Fair, June 1994, 132–48.

  Colón, Delin. Rasputin and the Jews: A Reversal of History. CreateSpace, 2011.

  Cone, Michèle. Artists Under Vichy. Princeton, N.J.: Princeton University Press, 1992.

  Conyers, Claude. “Courtesans in Dance History.” Dance History Chronicle 26, no. 2 (2003): 219–43.

  Cooper, Lady Diana. The Light of Common Day. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1959.

  Cooper, Sandi E. “Pacifism, Feminism, and Fascism in Inter-War France.” The International History Review 19, no. 1 (February 1997): 103–14.

  Corbin, Alain. Women for Hire: Prostitution and Sexuality in France After 1850. Translated by Alan Sheridan. Cambridge, Mass.: Harvard University Press, 1990.

  Cornwall, Tim. “£6m Facelift for Coco Chanel’s Highland Love Nest.” The Scotsman, July 1, 2012.

  “Court Rejects Chanel Claim.” The Times (London), May 31, 1973.

  Cousteau, Patrick. “Ce n’est pas dans le film.” Minute, April 9, 2009.

  Coward, Noël. Private Lives: An Intimate Comedy in Three Acts. London: Samuel French, 1930.

  Dalí, Salvador. The Secret Life of Salvador Dalí. Translated by
Haakon M. Chevalier. 1942. Reprint, London: Dover Publications, 1993.

  Dambre, Marc. “Paul Morand: The Paradoxes of Revision.” SubStance 32, no. 3 (2003): 43–54.

  Dank, Milton. The French Against the French: Collaboration and Resistance. New York: J. B. Lippincott, 1974.

  Davis, Mary E. Classic Chic: Music, Fashion, and Modernism. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2006.

  “Deauville Before the War.” Vogue, September 1, 1914, 31.

  “The Debut of the Winter Mode.” Vogue, October 1, 1926, 69.

  “The Decline of French Positivism.” Sewanee Review 33, no. 4 (October 1925): 484–87.

  Decourcelle, Pierre. La Danseuse au couvent. Paris: C. Lévy, 1883.

  ——. Les Deux Gosses. 1880. Paris: Fayard, 1950.

  De Giorgio, Michela. “La Bonne catholique.” Translated by Sylvia Milanesi and Pascale Koch. In Histoire des Femmes, edited by Georges Duby and Michelle Perrot, 170–97. Paris: Plon, 1991.

  De Grazia, Victoria. How Fascism Ruled Women. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993.

  Delange. “One-Piece Dress Wins Favor at French Resort.” Women’s Wear Daily 13, no. 88, 1.

  Déon, Michel. Bagages pour Vancouver. Paris: Editions de la Table Ronde, 1985.

  Dickinson, Hugh. Myth on the Modern Stage. Urbana: University of Illinois Press, 1969.

  “Dior and Paquin Exhibit Fashions.” The New York Times, February 19, 1947.

  “Dior 52, Creator of ‘New Look,’ Dies.” The New York Times, October 24, 1957.

  Doerries, Reinhard. Hitler’s Intelligence Chief: Walter Schellenberg. New York: Enigma Books, 2009.

  Drake, Alicia. The Beautiful Life: Fashion, Genius, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris. New York: Little, Brown, 2006.

  Dryansky, D. Y. “Camping with Coco.” HFD, April 9, 1969.

  Duchen, Claire. “Une Femme nouvelle pour une France nouvelle.” CLIO: Histoire, Femmes, et Sociétés 1 (1995): 2–8.

  “The Duke of Westminster Sues for Libel.” Gettysburg Times, January 6, 1934.

  Duncan, Isadora. My Life. New York: Boni and Liveright, 1927.

  Dupont, Pépita. “Michel Déon Raconte Chanel.” Paris Match, October 31, 2008.

  Eckman, Fern Marja. “Woman in the News: Coco Chanel.” New York Post, August 19, 1967.